To where civilization ends

Here it's different. Here the mountains are higher, longer distances, and civilization is less common than people. The weather here is changing every half hour, and the opportunity to see the sacred pillars in the "cell" is extremely rare. There is no internet over thousands of kilometers. But there is always fresh bread. Here in July, snow, and water - pure as tears. Here, in the lost land of our Motherland.

This trip has arisen spontaneously. She was born in the evening for dinner, and prepared a few days, and sometimes it pops up in the way. Departure was scheduled for July 1, but in a few days it is difficult to meet, and the first morning we were still running around the shops. Scurry delayed, and we did leave a city almost 22.00. Ahead were thousands of kilometers away - it was like when to leave. Already on the phone we gave valuable guidance on how to feed the cat, and where to collect the keys from the apartment. The trip was so spontaneous that even the money we had only one way.

First day. A little hard. I have not slept, left last night, and endless expanses rocked. We go no more than 80 - hurry no longer make any sense. The baby is sleeping, it looks cartoons. More rarely come across the familiar figures of regions. can not anywhere else to fill the gas tank. Did not manage to find the hotel - drove the entire Omsk, but everything is busy. We leave for the city and spend the night on the side of the road in the car.

In Siberia, amazing sunrises.

The Second Day. On the roadside infrastructure in Siberia :) bad anymore, of course, there is, but it is difficult to eat normally. On the edge of the motels in general. With barely managed to have breakfast - the food disgusting. After lunch we drive to Novosibirsk. Right at the entrance to a good campsite, tolerably lunch.

The city is an orgy right-handed cars. A little ride, but the impression is depressing. The roads are bad, a little interesting. We are leaving. The dam cork. For a long time looking for the hotel on the road and eventually stop in an excellent motel. Nice room, excellent restaurant. To Barnaul 100 km. Travel - 2500 km.

The third day. We have breakfast and go to Barnaul not buy anything that is not bought in Ufa - products and some things. Altai Territory makes a good impression - very clean, the roads are good on the roads. Barnaul - generally a song. We assumed that it would be a big village, but it turned out ... In general, my wife said, that catches his village, and moved here :) I agree - a great, clean, modern city, huge interchanges, shopping centers ... in short, a dream. Ride around the city, we visit in the "tape". Buy more products.

We go through Biysk - a small town. Everything is closed (Sunday, 17.00), but in the "Eldorado" time to buy a local SIM card, and bought, not even registered. We are trying unsuccessfully to fill the gas cylinder. We passed the place of death M. Evdokimov. Many visitors.

Entering the Republic of Altai. First impressions are awful. All of the first settlements simply covered with vacationers everywhere all surrenders, cafes, music .... Some intriguing.

Katun Beach just littered with debris. Somewhere I've seen .... Oh yes, in the south of the same .. is a bit frustrating. However, after 70 kilometers all is on the wane, and we stop to spend the night in a small campsite in a small house with a shower. Prices have jumped - if the last of the great room we paid 1400 today for the house with the heater, humidity and mosquitoes of 1800. However, there is light, switched refrigerator car from the inverter to house. Cool. Roast barbecue, walk.

The fourth day. Dream come true - we are rolling on Chuysk. Without a doubt - it is simply amazing. Every ten kilometers of mountains rising higher and higher.

The connection has not been everywhere, passes all of the above finally Seminsky pass 1790 m. Climbed fine, but the top temperature has risen to 94, and pass on the gift rynochke after drowned, he jumped to 104. It should be be careful. We passed on a number of price tags, of course, the tin. During a bear claw asking from 800 rubles, and even the smallest trinket type wooden pendant - from 100. Even yugah sellers modest. Though ... everyone lives as he can.

Go further. Chui more beautiful. The rise of the Chike-Taman. On the pass we meet the Dutchman on a motorcycle, going to China alone, an interesting man.

The road goes along the Katun river, very nice. On one of the languages ​​of the road and stopped to take pictures. Next to a halt with a local child. Suggested grayling, we took the evening, put in the fridge.

Pass confluence Chewie Katun. Visitors also have. On the far bank of the campgrounds. Interestingly, there is always the case?

We stopped for lunch at some diner. With hardly ate a little bit. In general, sad here with food. True, and the price is small, the three of about 300 rubles. Here in the village, he saw a gas filling, trying to fill the balloon. Altaian reluctantly agreed to half fill, 2, 5 liters. More - to any. Yeah ... flight ... We had to do everything at home. White Bom pass. A lot of monuments to those killed in the war - they are everywhere, in the villages, on the roads. Fill them, the price of gasoline rising quietly - 23.90 already.

Everything seems to be insanely beautiful and everywhere I want to stop and capture.

Now the path is really Chui :)

The mountains are even higher. With a huge rock falls Shirlama waterfall. To me it just seems huge, but it's just the beginning.

We go further. Prior to Aktas a little less than a hundred, but the time in the evening. Along the route throughout the mountain streams, one another more rapidly.

The first time we see Chu proteins. Impressive.

In the evening, around 6, drive to Aktas. This is almost the last bastion of civilization on the M52, a few shops, Sberbank, two hotels. Gasoline at 24.50. We checked the map - no money. Fill them in full, tanks, canisters and go deeper into the Altai, to the first goal - Teletskoye Lake. Asphalt ends and begins a good grader. As soon as the first attraction - Red Gate.

Previously, there was held Pesce-horse trail along the crest of the ridge Aygulakskogo and river Chibit squeezed into a narrow gorge. It was later blown up the gorge, the bridge is laid. Red gate called because of cinnabar, in large quantities contained in the rocks. Now here is excellent grader squeezes between Aygulakskim Kurai and ridges. Time is almost 19.00, and we start looking for accommodation. Sunuvshis on a small poster "Fishing, sauna on the lake 5 km", fall into a mountain track and overcoming the dirt on a full drive, we go there, thinking in passing, in fact for someone designed this poster. Going along the river Chibit River about 5 km almost half an hour. We come - two houses and bath, very cold. Behind the house is asked to 400 rubles to the nose. Turn around.

The result is the base for 100 rubles to the nose, the owner is Ensign frontier Aktas, originally from Kumertau. Very happy. However, whether outgoing, or countrymen have not seen, but a little intrusive, but maybe we're just tired ... We spend the night. We have wooden yurt with a stove. Light from the generator, the plant for a few hours. As a result, we include a cling all the charging and switches the refrigerator in the car on the generator.

The fifth day. Got up before sunrise, I wanted to shoot, but actually turned out to be nothing. While Romka breakfast, found that the new laptop no Photoshop or even the viewer. I go to "shoot" to the neighbors, eventually find in Novosibirsk "peepers" and 4th photoshop. We left early. Today, I plan to go 150 km to the Teletskoye. Pass Pass Ulagan.

Quickly reached the village Ulagan. Surprisingly, it was a large village with decent shops, Sberbank, the House of Justice, and filling! We bought bread. The views of why the obliques.

On the way to see a small lake American golden duck. Beautiful, never seen before. Come on Balyktuyul, it immediately at the entrance, turn right at the Balykchy. The road turns into a track field. But the machines go, every hour someone comes. Many nedoprivodov right-handed. Nedoprivodam difficult - constantly go out to one another. We pass the Pazyryk burial mounds. On the Internet, much has been written, in reality - incomprehensible pile of collapsed rubble.

The weather changes very quickly, again rain. I imagine what would happen with nedoprivodami.

However, rain carries. Track is worse, almost grader.

In the forest, on the brook sits a group of tourists, they go to the Teletskoe third day without car came behind them. We took out the phone, trying to ring a chime, but because the forest is not visible satellites promise to ring a chime from the mountain. Later, after an hour and a half, the relationship is still there, phoned to the travel agency, there are responsible, that the car was gone three days ago still. Service, however ...

Excellent track through the forest, the forest is cut off suddenly and I see the first sheet. I have the height, by the way, I'm afraid :) And here is. How to part - is unclear. But in the distance - something fabulous ...

We leave to the Katu-Yaryk.

Next, I will not say a word cool, To get, well, huge, fucking and more. Here, everything's cool, awesome, great, huge and just fucking. I can not even guess why and how obtained from nature such things.

The type of Katu-Yaryk, and the idea that there will need to come down, I clenched eggs. Clenched tightly. In general, I am afraid of heights. And then ... well what to say something ...

This is the place where insanely beautiful and scary.

It is a place where eagles soar just above the windshield.

This Kathu-Yaryk.

On the other side of the gorgeous falls waterfall river Karasu. Sam Katu-Yaryk, of course, great. The height of the foot - 800 m, length - 3, 5 km with 9 turns and a slope of 10 degrees. It is the only car in the path of the river valley. The road began to build in 1987, three bulldozer, father and son, and nephew, worked on the pass for two years. All the way from Ulagan to Balykchy, about 120 km, they make their way for almost 10 years.

Most of the cars from the pass go back. While going down too much. Technically, the descent even for nedoprivoda no problem. The biggest problem - the inability to pass one another, we have to be careful. The descent is HUGE. On the second photo shows a small point - a "loaf". And it is - only one knee pass. At the bottom of the orange - excavator.

On the descent we have faced in the Altai business. Repairman-excavator pours a huge pile of stones on the road, and then removes it for 100 rubles. from the machine. Despite the fact that on the descent NOT pass two cars. Call it a radish ... There we fight broke directly on the stones, the back is very tough guy on the L200 was the shout that he paid back, and now has collected all the money .... Tin, in short ...

But fear Katu-Yaryk quickly replenished. We walk through the valley ... Chulyshman. This mega-gesture. The river is squeezed into the rocks, the road along the river. With rocks in the 2500-3000 meter high waterfalls falling. In general, I can not describe it ...

Exit to look at Chulyshman, move the car, suddenly someone will go.

Chulyshman wild and beautiful. I'd love to one day rafting on it.

Go to Teletskoye. Towards catches Nissan pickup truck, he said that the bridge washed away by Bashkaus the river and the lake did not pass. However, the promise to put in two days.

We reach the confluence Chulcha in Chulyshman.

In the mouth there is a small campsite, where a fenced area you can put up a tent. They also 500 rubles transported by boat to the other side of the river. Further, about 9 km along the bed Chulcha Uçar can get to the waterfall, which cascades height is 160 meters. But the weather is changing rapidly and we do not run the risk of a child to walk. We drove a little further and on the banks of Chulyshman do a day's rest.

Our first dnevka. Sitting in a chair just fine. Nothing you do not want - you can contemplate around forever. Try a little fishing. At dinner - soup of grayling.

Day next. We go to the Teletskoe. The road somewhere less, somewhere a little better, a passenger here is more complicated. Come across a small village Co. - that's really really, godforsaken place, I thought. Eh ... I wish I knew what's next. Although even here it is not clear what to do in winter when all covered with snow. Weather was still lightning fast.

Half an hour is possible to remove something that is needed in the Urals day :)

We reached Bashkaus River. Bridge really is not. When will - it is unknown, so there is a solarium... They asked us if we did not see a fuel truck on the road ... However ... The bridge is likely to be soon. Brody did not pass - say yesterday passed Kamaz and he was on the windshield. Interestingly, and who now teletskoye they like from there? We are leaving. On the rise - a great view. So I filled the valley Chulyshman. That it will be for me forever - the eternal and changeable.

We're moving back. Rain trying to interrupt our dinner, and we moved into the car.

Here pour the remnants of gasoline. Now we only have half a tank. It is strange that I thought wrong, or greater consumption ... If I went to the Teletskoye back would have been a problem. We hope to refuel in Ulagane. Again Katu-Yaryk again dizzy and shrink eggs. Again radish-excavator. Here they are, the country's heroes.

We climb. Somewhere in front of the small forest path to the edge, we go there, somewhere there must be a waterfall, visible from below. We find it. Interestingly, the river is also called Karasu, as well as on the other side Chulyshman :)

There's also a very interesting house. Abandoned, but with fresh traces of the people inside. On the outskirts, on the edge of the precipice, at the waterfall. Nice and creepy.

In Ulagane refuel. Before Aktas in the valley lies across the Red Gate Kamaz. The bottom has a decent traffic jam of trucks and small cars. We go round. The edge of the ledge, his wife directs, and drivers, tractor waiting for help. Suddenly, the car lurched, wild eyes of his wife, all yelling and waving - wheel slipped in breakage. I thought all ... Comes afterthought, that the child should have been planted ...

The fourteenth day. In the morning, had breakfast, went back to the Kosh-Agach, hammered refrigerator, milk child, dressed in full, we remove a little more money, trying to find spare parts, and leave at 14.00 in Tuva. Just got out of Kosh-Agach, we inhibits Silver Patriot (Patriot is the third, which I see for the whole trip), who went before us minutes to 10. It pograntsy 4, check the documents and permits. This is the fourth check - no wonder I ordered :) skip the Altai lot of radars.

The Last Village Altai.

Goodbye, Altai.

The following people virtually disappear - a small track and a couple of summer sheepfolds. Away - huge herds.

Sometimes Navigator provides cool things - for example, that the CPM before the pass Buguzun, in reality turned out that's what.

begins the pass Buguzun. Contrary to the internet, we flew him vlegkuyu - after a warm key is just baby talk for creches. The road to it goes straight on Buguzun river. Nature, too, is changing. Completely missing the trees, just prairie to the mountains. Over the ridge Chikhacheva - another world.

Hello, Tyva.

Pass Buguzun 2440 m.

Tyva other. It feels right. There is no surrounding snow-capped peaks, where the grass is warmer and wider space.

Go on Tyve easier to track barely visible, and therefore is not deep. Any manifestation of civilization disappeared as a class. We pass the knoll hill, but there is no hint of human habitation, but sometimes rare tracks.

If the Altai - a land of streams and rivers, the Tuva - land of clear lakes.

According to the plan today, spending the night on the lake Hindiktig-Khol. Track is very good, and we're going fast. And then I realize that we were going the wrong way - Hiindikting remains sidelined. We turn around, walk back. In the saddle, the tract Saryg-Khovu dozens of ruts, and we're kind of going right, but there is a small puddle, and so on, we reduced due to the stones start to go and sit down ..... Here I broke out in a cold sweat.

It was immediately clear that the car sat on the soul. Roll huge door opens with difficulty, and in the water. Threshold completely in the water. Time 18.00. Around - not a soul and absolute desert.

Harvested in advance anchor in this case turned out to be disgusting. The soil was weak and did not hold. I scored it and Wedge in a row, and deep, and each time it was pulled out. Dirt itself was not prokopnut - thick layer of grass gave shovel stick. It was getting dark. From the ground it grew, then just as suddenly disappeared Tuva. By 20.00 it was clear that the car did not pull forward. In the course went hand winch for traction ago. Zalebedilis for a decent stone through two extensions. By 20.30 stone vomited. The car was in place, with already a little rumpled hijack front wing - Jack went into the swampy soil so that then hardly reach them. Even further - more stone. Putting the "handle" the three extension - is not enough. I cling to all front winch - an angle greater than 90 degrees. Tightness, the face turns to a dry crackling ..., pulls the roller and the car falls back. yyyy ..... already dusk. I begin to pull the handle of the face, to raise the hijack ... In short, dropping further sex, say - and so I've never liked sports and competitions, but now, standing knee-deep in swamp muck, all udelali dirt, looking at the driver's seat, bathed in mud ... I am more aware of the strangeness of fun.

Time 22.30. Machine centimeter is selected in the side of the dry, still three hours and have a chance to be on the dry, if again not to throw up a stone. The baby was asleep in the car. I see headlights. I run. UAZ with Tuvinians. They say that not only gasoline, but still need to be selected. Starts to twitch. Zero. Another UAZ. 23.30. Another loaf. Tuvan fifteen people, and the problem is that someone is drunk. The wife is experiencing, sitting in a car with a child. Time 00.00. Not by itself, but you need to get the car. Both cling UAZ for different eye and on the team start to pull at different angles. Wild spurts Spark UAZ + loaf pulled me. They offer to pour them for luck, deny, by virtue of not having. It felt oppressive situation, but we're going fast and going. Uazik give first 10-liter canister with gasoline. I get up somewhere in the desert in some rocks. We fall asleep on the seats. During the night someone goes by and signals.

Morning. All in the mud. Come on Hiindikting-Khol. A total of 20 km. We are fighting a half hour. The road is not at all. Or are we just somewhere to have lost it. Just go up the hill straight in the wilderness, through a height of 2448 go out on the lake. Later, on the map, I found a way, and where it comes ashore. We find this rut ​​rut and go down to the lake. Uffff ...

Clean water Hiindikting-Khol.

Cooking dinner. We decide. It was originally planned to go to Mugur-Aksy, and before them was no more than 32 km. But standing on the edge of the lake, seen marshlands, and after yesterday's scary adventure already. Especially here do not travel at all. Local moving that way, and it leads to the Kyzyl-Khaya. And indeed, we are more than a day in Tuva and in that time saw just three cars. So if you sit down ... In the end, we decide not to seek more adventurous and go for Kyzyl-Khaya, moreover, after yesterday, and gasoline is not so much. Standing on the lake changed your mind - cold, a lot of mosquitoes, and after yesterday's mood fell slightly.

We go back the same way across the mountain, back to the ambush. Now it is clear that splashed cool. Shackle raise left and screwdriver, but also found in grass taking off from the last winch roller.

We go along this track. She nakatana well, the logic should go in Kyzyl-Khaya. Go hour - is confirmed. The road itself is becoming much better, there are bridges. The machine begins to twitch.

We leave in Kyzyl-Khaya, time 17.00, passed from the lake only 54 km. In Kyzyl-Khaya even worse than I thought. In Russian in general no one says, well, it must be confessed, the male population of drunkenness. Many shouting something and show. Through the stump deck to explain with a girl with a baby and leave.

The car did not pull and constantly stalls. Change the fuel filter - does not help. Outside the village we refuel from cans. Gasoline is small, it's awful, machine troit, twitches in the rise of a stall. Another addition is forgotten screw the cap into the tank.

Come on, just a horrible, disgusting grader. More than 20 km / h in the car themselves open cup holders and glove compartments. Left spring breaks in two places - now the cup is already four turns.

The road runs along the border with Mongolia - 80 km along the border. I've never seen the state border. The reality is more prosaic - no Great Wall - just wooden poles with a single row of wire, and periodically kilometer beautiful columns. On the other side - the Mongols. But all the same - the same tent, the same sheep and yaks.

Wild Tyvy road.

Mongolia.

petrol consumption - crazy, it ends quicker than we are approaching a gas station. According to it only in Hondergee, it is about 200 km. Somewhere the road better go 60. Zubodrobilovka terrible, waiting for something zagremit. And here :) Almost Unscrew hub, there are only two bolts. Quickly tighten the two, let's go. 140 km from Kyzyl Khai we've got all four loaves.

These small road problems flavored with what is happening around. The same deserted and beauty. The road goes along the ridge Cagan, and ends the pass Koge-Dawa, 2400 m. Pass beautiful road it is already excellent.

The road again decreases slightly. At 20.00 stop for lunch :) I merge all traces of gasoline cans, ext. the tank is drained even from the generator. Get a full tank and another 5 liters to spare. I remember yesterday canister and the Bucs in the mud. Who really know their dependence on the car and the savagery of these places.

We go, it is already dark. Two o'clock the night, out of the darkness at the pass out of the dark figure and the rod slows us. Through the window I am asking who says that the border guard. I did not let the clutch, I ask, where is also where the car. Finally, I give the documents pass check again. It is said that up to Chadan more than 150 km. This ass, gasoline is not enough. I decide to go all the way to Khakassia. By early morning we visit Chad on the latest drops (luckily pogranets mistaken distance) gasoline engine already twitching. Buy a drink of water, too, passed. The latter drank more water to the lake, only a little tea for dinner and everything. We are pleased to drink. Refill tanks and more.

Western Tuva ... It's really wild country with not always friendly people. This desolate area with a complete lack of roads, communications, and some or basic infrastructure. There are no stores, no gas stations, no signs, no nothing. There can be really scary. Terribly from the fact that if something happens, take the help of simply nowhere.

Of course, not all of Tuva bad and evil, but the problem is in the fact that few of them - two days and 400 kilometers we met only 6 cars, two UAZ and four loaves. This complete lack of pavement. When we got to the Kyzyl-Khaya, I was hoping to Chadan will go the road. But I met a zubodroitelnoe direction. 140 km I was driving along the state border, except the frontier posts. And there was no one - neither guards nor Tuvan - only squirrels, in extreme quantities. Nature of Western Tuva distinctive. The almost complete absence of forests, hills and a little water - a Western Tuva. After a bit of Altai grustnovato. Although, of course, it is still beautiful and unusual. Later, the master database, where we stop to say that Eastern Tyva other. This is a hundred times more peaceful region, with the taiga, mountains and rivers. Interesting coincidence of life ...

And yet, I'll come back here :)

Day which is already the sixteenth ... sort of. I went all night. About Chadan I will not tell, and so have caught the horror of Tuvans :). We entered in Khakassia. In the morning some sleep. Night still celebrated on OPM - dark shed on a dark mountain pass where the policeman with a flashlight-fob wrote me in a crumpled magazine.

Breakfast on the banks of the river, yet the trees - it's great, too. Vividly apparent change of geography, because what drove all night.

Go ahead, pass the pass the Kuru-kul, now just Khakassia :)

Cartography navigator here is impressive :) Yellow - drawn road blue thin line - a real track.

appears normal asphalt, signage, refueling. There was cellular. Imek drove into the town, on the main street, has Unaccustomed to "speed bumps", do not have time to slow down, and we have broken off another piece of the spring, which rides on the street and rings. Buy some food.

Somewhere on the pass are starting to warm up. I'm going to open the hood and op-la ... Because of the fact that even when leaving Ukoka burst bonnet hinge on the left side now has broken the lock, or rather shackle. With barely open, then long can not close.

time in the evening, it is unclear where to spend the night - very densely populated part of Khakassia. Suddenly we realize that Sayanogorsk - this is the Yenisei. Ohrenet ... Great Siberian river just 68 km away from us. We go there. We want to stand on the shore, but notice a small pointer, hostel "Cedar". We call in to find out, and ofigevaet - for a completely ridiculous money get a huge house with electricity, heating, 6 sockets, sink and composting toilets, but in addition also a warm bath to bathe. Separately, an awesome dinner. It seems we are somewhere near the paradise ... The next day. Due to the fact that Tuva passed quickly, the time has carriage. They stood on the Yenisei, looked at GES. He's not to say that much hooked. You can watch only from the observation deck, she far - forbidden zone is huge. After the accident, about any tour no question. In addition, next month marks a year, and work is in full swing to the meeting of Putin, in short, there is no one we needed.

We went at the Sayano-Shushenskaya dam. Impressions are still those ... Apparently, to see the beauty, you have somewhere to go on a boat. We looked, and then another in the evening came, and all.

We stood at an excellent camp site private, "Cedar", before reaching 20 km to the hydroelectric power station, on the left, to the local ski resort. The hosts - Alex and Olga. Base - super. One of the best experiences. The hostess prepares masterfully, houses on 5+. In general, who will go, I recommend. Hydro-satellite Mainskaya HPP, a trout farm. Prices are certainly barbaric, but I wanted fresh fish for dinner.

After dinner, we went to take pictures of the Sayano-Shushenskaya HPP.

So, while there is still like that do not understand, I do not feel like home yet. We decided to take off to the dream of many. On the navigator figured - 1900 km. A lot of unplanned roll ... Long looked at the navigator, consulted with Alexis, and decided to go through the Western Sayan Mountains, across the path of the road, it turns 1300. In the morning we start.

Along the way, of course, we visit the museum in Shusha. The tour seemed a bit tight, besides a lot of people, and themselves can not go anywhere. Leaving a half - to go a lot further.

We go all day, the road - a good grader. Dressings is extremely small, often use the canister. The machine is again very tupit and not going up the hill. Still, my assumptions were justified - gasoline pump kirdyk. We stop at the pass, pulls off the seat, split open tank, new fuel pump - we go :)

In the evening go to the M53 already behind Krasnoyarsk. Dinner in the cafe, we go all night. Road - atas. I do not expect this from the federal highway. No whole pieces, a lot of repairs, equipment, grader sometimes no more than 40. On the way back, at the entrance to this area, we stopped at a campsite at night already approached the man on TLC 70, asked if this nonsense will end soon. I wonder what the owners of passenger cars feel? During the day more interesting than the night. Around Siberia. And Siberia for me, is primarily a field of willow-herb.

Passing towns, Kansk, Taishet, Tulun, produce a depressing effect. In the evening - Irkutsk on the horizon. Camping no one in front of the city. Trying to find it already in the country, on the M55, in the direction of Slyudyanka, but not within 50 km. Back in Irkutsk, go to Listvyanka. We spend the night in the car.

He would not let us. Absolutely. Too many problems to spontaneous decisions. First differences. Then he spent the night in the car in Listvyanka. In the morning we go to Irkutsk, a long time looking for spare parts, the market ... By the way, the Irkutsk branch of the club UAZ Patriot - extremely responsive ... I always knew that the club sticker "UAZ Patriot" you can ... 30 views and zero .. But first the 70-ka tormoznutaya TLC gladly explained to me where the market is and how to get.

Purchased parts, drove to the store. We fill them and go on to the M55 Ulan-Ude. On the descent to take Sludyanka famous Baikal omul smoked straight from the barbecue. Eden, roasting it. Go along the BAM, just get nowhere. Or there is no place to move the BAM to the shore, or nothing at all. We pass from Irkutsk 320 km. We arrived at the sandy bay, there is a huge amount of Buryat camp sites and simple machines.

Time 22.00. In shock I turn around and go back. Go all night, I come back to Listvyanka. And at 6 am aware that there is also no place to stand :( Listvyanka - a dead end camp sites and hotels Hmm ... Open finally the Internet, understand that yesterday he had to go on Chuvyrkuy and not come back .... damn. ... We decided to go on Olkhon closest. There is a road along the lake, the soil on the navigator. Total 210 km. The child does not even have time to wake up. We start.

Very quickly, the ground is deteriorating, and turns into a taiga track. In the engine some crackling strong. We are already going on this track 10 km from the nearest village. I find the cause of the noise - wedged gidronatyazhitel top chain. Very surprised when I found it in a box :) spare me. Move on. Kilometers through 20 flies in the pit and we separates the trunk ...

Yyy ... and most importantly, lost one rack boot ... :( Canisters merge into the tank water down drains to reduce a hammer, put in place the boot, now he is an angle on the board directly on the roof. Yyyy ...

It takes another 10 kilometers of Whistling from below is transformed into shrieking and gnashing of the rear wheel. Since I was not there "soldiers" in the drum, I reverse it, but it's OK. Let's go. Do not go - shrieking and gnashing. I reveal the hub and ... Here I was really cold sweat. I pull out the outer bearing - he hardly turns, like grease on the ground. Rented hub - completely poured on the ground the inner bearing rollers. The nearest village - 40 kilometers through the taiga. Not funny.

I do not know how anyone, but I do, guys, I never change the bearings. I always went for it in service. We do an audit. There is one alternate bearing, and a spare hub already pressed-in bearings, but to throw out the pins. We begin the most difficult - the removal of the breakaway of the inner ring. Gray cutting torch. Wife warm, I dolblyu chisel. We pull off. Is pressed into a new cage, put the bearing, put on the hub, taking with external spare wheel hub, it is also one perepressovyvayu clip. Put, grease, I collect.

Pancake! Chuvsvuyu like a hero! It was really uncomfortable. I was ready to walk to the village of 40 km for help. The nearest village is 50 km ahead, we decide to go very slowly, but after all have reached to this unfortunate Baikal! Quietly go, places the road is greatly improved. But sometimes not.

Come two o'clock - and we are in the coastal village, and lo! There MTS. Played on the beach - we get up. Hurrah! The long-awaited vacation!

It is really clear water.

Today is the second day, as we have on the lake, and it seems like 22 days away. It's almost the end of our journey, suddenly who came so far. The speedometer 8864 km. 1352 liters of gasoline burned. The list of failures in the path of decency, just getting any Bulgarian 4 times. Tomorrow I'm going to change the shock absorbers, the spring (by the way, is also the second burst) - and maybe in those we reach - now the machine does not heel. It is necessary to check the oil in the axles, the suspension to stretch, to tie the muffler, to try to secure the hood. And to start home.

We went fishing and rest, do boats.

To go - that's fine. Nowhere to go - too :)

We remember the route, drink champagne again, and quietly sit on the beach.

Baikal is also changeable.

It is beautiful. Everything is quiet and no one is afraid.

Five days on Baikal quickly passed. In the morning, slowly, we get up and go. Homeward special adventures did not cause. Rustled Rear Axle, opened on the sidelines after Kansk, emptied the sawdust, have changed at the same time a stream flowing oil seal, and more. During the first stage reached Krasnoyarsk, we spent the night in a hotel. In the morning, we got in the car and even in one stage in two days reached the house.

We were pleased. He brought us home. During this journey, he became something more than just a car. Ekspeditsionnik - a friend. Only there you realize that almost everything depends on him. He is more than a car. He is a fragment of yourself. You hope for it as well as to himself. And this part - is no longer a piece of iron.

House. 13860 km. It's a lot. But it was an exciting journey. We passed a lot. Four of the country. Altai, Tuva, Khakassia, Buryatia bit. A bunch of areas. We have seen different people. Altai, Tuva, Khakassia, Russian. Someone normal, someone evil, someone pofigistichno. Almost all were surprised by finding out where we are. Even more - learning route. Many days without communication. At its food and its electricity (refrigerator, by the way, died, right at the entrance to Lake Baikal). We have seen a lot. River, where thirsty. Mountains that you want to watch. Lake, where you want to live. A place where very few people.

We are glad. I will always remember the beauty Chulyshman, this bright green and tysyachemetrovye wall. I will remember, as I cut through the moraine Aktru wheels. Forever etched in the memory of the dream of his youth - the eternal rest of Ukok, the places where it is difficult to get into, and even harder to leave. Wildness of Tuva, and its primitive beauty. Long way to go and clean Baikal tears. And I will come here again.