Climber Denis Urubko: biography, climbing, books

Denis Viktorovich Urubko - the famous high-altitude mountaineer, Master of Sports of the international category, winner of the prestigious mountaineering award. The first inhabitants of the CIS, which conquered all the "eight thousanders" of the world, without the use of oxygen systems. Today we'll look at the biography and achievements of this outstanding climber.

Childhood

Denis Urubko was born June 29, 1973 in the town of Nevinnomyssk, Stavropol Territory. His father was a surveyor. With youthful nails Denis went with him to the North Caucasus in the field crews, I went hunting and fishing. So in the future climber formed a love of nature and tourism.

In 1987 Urubko family moved to Sakhalin. The reason for this was the need for climate change, due to the developing of a future climber asthma. In the Far East Urubko gained experience long camp life, traveling through the woods to the south of the island. In 1990, a young man read an article about the ascent of the Kazakh climbers on the summit of Dhaulagiri Himalayan and book Reinhold Messner "Crystal Horizon". These works have changed his life radically and induced dreams of a career climber.

Debut climbing

In August 1991, 18-year-old made his debut in Urubko "real mountain", having won the 4506-meter summit of East Belukha. During his studies in Vladivostok he began studying in the city mountaineering club. Together with the other participants went on numerous charges. On Badzhalsky ridge novice climber closed third discharge, and Ala-Archa - second. In early 1992, together with other Urubko subdued Kluchevskoy Kamchatka. Its height is 4, 75 kilometers away.

Study, the army and the new height

In the summer of the same year, the climber went to the Pamir-Altai work as an assistant in mountain expeditions. There, he won his first five thousand meters - mountain Aksu Main (5, 3 km). The Kyrgyz town of Osh Denis Urubko met with the senior coach of CSKA MoD RK - Yervand Ilyinsky, who invited the young climber to his club. Throwing in early 1993 to study at the Art Institute of Vladivostok, the young man went to live in Kazakhstan and joined the mountaineering section of Alma-Ata. Having received Kazakh citizenship, Urubko was called up for military service, which was held in the CSKA club to positions Ensign sportswear company. After the army Urubko climbing career took off.

Significant climbing

Enumerate the iconic climb climber Denis Urubko can be long. Focus only on the most important of his achievements. In the summer of 1999 for 42 days climber ran the program "Snow Leopard", which includes 5 peaks seventhousanders in the territory of the former CIS. In the period from 2000 to 2009 Urubko ran the program Q-14 to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in the world. He became the first CIS representative, who did it, and the eighth man in the world, who ascended to the top of the data without the use of oxygen equipment. The program of the Q-14 also includes the highest mountain in the world - Mount Everest. With Denis Urubko it began the program in 2000.

Records

In December 1999, climber showed record time at the annual races Memory of Bukreeva Amangeldy Peak (4 km). Distance from Memorial "victim in the mountains" substantially to the vertices of said mountain rock Urubko overcome for 75 minutes. The organizers of the race even set a premium of $ 500 for the bruising of this record.

In August 2000, he participated in the climber mountain festival "Khan Tengri", which took place on the mountain of the same name. The event was conducted a contest for speed climb on which Urubko won a brilliant victory. Advanced portion from the base camp to the top of the mountain, a length of 3010 meters, it overcame of 7 hours and 40 minutes.

August 21, 2001 high-altitude climber Urubko made a speedy independent climbing on Mount Gasherbrum II: 1 Camp (5, 8 km) to the top (8 035 km) in just seven and a half hours. Thus, he managed to beat the record set by Anatoly Boukreev in 1997 for two hours. September 14, 2006 climber broke the record in the annual race up the highest mountain in Europe - Elbrus. Distance from Azau (start lifting 2, 4 km) to Western mountain top (5, 642 km), it has overcome for only 3 hour and 55 minutes. This result shocked the whole climbing community. To the fore in the media, not only of the former CIS, but also throughout the world.

Rescue operations ( "Savior")

In May 2001, Denis Urubko accompanied on Lhotse slope from a height of about 8, 1 to 6 km from the camp stray forces Polish climber Anna Czerwinski with Pasang Sherpa. After resting for one day after the rescue, mountaineer conquered the mountain. Further support Polish woman doing Sherpas and her colleagues in the team.

In February 2003, after an unsuccessful assault on K2 slope within the Polish expedition Urubko pulled from a height of 7, 75 km Pole Marcin Kachkaev, who fell ill and exhausted.

In summer 2003, Russian climber had a chance to lower the Frenchman Jean-Christophe Lafaya with Broad Peak. During the ascent, have the unfortunate climber developed severe pneumonia. The Kazakh team continued to successfully take the height and Urubko won her the next day. In 2006, the French climber went missing during the winter self-climbing Mount Makalu.

In May 2007, interrupting a high-speed running on a single eight-Dzhaulagiri, Urubko took off from the mountain of his compatriot - a veteran Boris Korshunov. Last held a "cold" night at a height of 7, 3 km and was almost at death's door.

In May 2008, immediately after the conquest of the eight thousanders Makalu Urubko participated in the rescue of a sick Spanish climber Inaki Ochoa. When loaded with oxygen cylinders Russian rose from the foot to camp 3 (6, 9 km) Iñaki died of brain edema in the 4 camp (7, 4 km). Later Denis Viktorovich, along with other Spanish rescuers were awarded the medal "For services to sport."

Interesting Facts

Denis Urubko, whose biography we are considering today is a very strong-willed and determined person. In proof of this, consider some fascinating facts.

As a child, the future winner of the "Snow Leopard" was suffering from allergic asthma. Most likely, the reason for its exacerbation were two chemical production, located in his hometown Nevinnomyssk. However, Denis managed to conquer all the Himalayan eight thousanders without oxygen equipment.

In June 1991, during a trip to the mountain system Kodar Urubko mistaken pass, which was not clearly marked on the map. Because of this, he had to climb with a heavy backpack on a complex rock height of 2, 6 km. Unable to find traces of people at its peak, climber called it "Sakhalin".

In his youth, Denis Urubko moonlighting as an actor in the theater. Arriving in Almaty in early 1993, he joined the local Theater for Young People, where he played in the play "Silva", "White Cross", "The Four interrogation", "River on the asphalt", "Treasure Island" and others.

Denis Urubko became the first climber from the CIS, who conquered all 14 eight-thousanders of the Earth. Before him, such was considered Ukrainian climber Vladislav Terzyul, but it will not count the two peaks that were just a few tens of meters below the main summit.

His military service in the Armed Forces of Kazakhstan Urubko finished a lieutenant, as a senior coach in mountaineering. Soon, due to the restructuring of the Army in the CSKA abolished climbing as a sport. In this regard, Urubko was offered a job in Astana in the department of physical training of troops with the prospect of the destination in the Majors. Mountaineer is not satisfied, and he decided to resign.

The philosophy of

We should also mention the philosophical understanding of the mountaineering section, which varies in different periods of the formation of Denis Urubko. As a young man climbing a mountain for him was an adventure and a way of knowledge of the world. Later, he began to look at mountaineering, as a sport and a way to explore their physical and volitional qualities. To date Urubko refers to mountain climbing as an art, which is an integral part of the knowledge of the human soul and creativity. In this case, the climber says that without the art of the previous stages and can not be converted into demagogy.

Awards

During his long and eventful career Urubko been awarded these awards and titles:

"Piolet d'Or Asia" in 2006 to conquer the top of Manaslu, and in 2009 - for the opening of a new route on Cho Oyu;
"Piolet d'Or" in 2010 for the best ascent of the same route Cho Oyu;
Eiger Award in 2009;
"Snow Leopard" in 1999;
ITAS in 2001 for a book about mountain climbing, different vitality presentation, aesthetics and qualitative research;
Chevalier of the Order of the Golden NOC (National Olympic Committee) of RK in 2009;
Athlete of the Year of Kazakhstan in 2009.

General Activities

In March 2010, the hero of our story, was elected vice-president of the Mountaineering Federation of the Republic of Kazakhstan. In October of the same year he was invited to the competition "Piolet d'Or Asia 2010" as chairman of the jury. In 2012 and 2014 he was invited to the competition, only this time as a member of the jury. In late 2010, Denis Urubko among the top 16 climbers participated in the International Mountain Summit a report on the Kazakh mountaineering routes. Since autumn 2014 the climber trains and goes to the mountains with young people in the vicinity of Bergamo.

In the spring of 2016 he was in the framework of the international project URUBKO CAMP help interested young people. The activities of the project brings together Russia, Central Asia and Europe. By the way, he has 3 Urubko citizenship: Russian, Kazakh and Polish. The project URUBKO CAMP climber holds seminars and joint training with beginners conquerors of mountain tops. In addition, it financially supports advanced collectives and organizes joint outputs in the mountains.

Books and movies

Denis Urubko, which, incidentally, has a journalism education, personally describes his ascent. Debut product of the climber began essay "The Madness of the brave", published in the newspaper of the town Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, which was called the "Young Guard". This article Urubko told about the conquest of the highest point of the island in 1990. Since then and to this day the climber wrote a great number of articles for various publications, the lion's share of which were foreign. In addition, he has published 13 books and directed four films about mountaineering. The most popular book of Denis Urubko "Walking along the vertical" (2013). She tells the biography of the climber and the story of his achievements. popularity has also got published in the 2012 book "The absurdity of Mount Everest." Denis Urubko tells it how he fulfilled his dream in 2000 and got to the foot of the mountain.